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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary honour.